A look at the wine business in Hawaii, where a small distributor decides which bottles reach restaurant lists and store shelves — good news for small family wineries and local bars trying to get noticed.

• Ohana Beverage Company is a small-to-midsize distributor that supplies fine wine and spirits across all the Hawaiian islands.
• Its trade tastings bring in buyers from hotels, restaurants, and retail shops to try wines before deciding what to stock.
• The company acts as a gatekeeper, favoring producers that take care of their land and their workers.
• California's Williams Selyem, known for Russian River Valley pinot noir and mostly sold direct to its mailing list, used the event to reach island restaurants it rarely visits.
• Buyers are pushed to refresh their wine lists often, since a stale list loses customers.

Outlook: Ohana plans several more tasting events before the end of the year, so expect new small-producer labels to show up on Hawaii menus.